heritage building of kuala lumpur

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Central Market, Kuala Lumpur

Central Market, Kuala Lumpur

Central Market is one of the architectural gems of Kuala Lumpur and a living proof of the existence of Art Deco Architecture in Kuala Lumpur. The history of the Central Market started circa 1888 when an open wet market was set up at the same location where the present building now stands.  Later a permanent single-storey structure was erected to house all vendors under one roof.

Central Market when it was a single-storey structure circa 1900

Central Market when it was a single-storey structure circa 1900

Central Market in its present structure

Central Market in its present structure said to be taken circa 1940s

In 1936, Kuala Lumpur Sanitary Board invented Tenders for the construction of the Central Market. Messrs T.Y Lee was appointed the Architect and Designer whilst Mr. R.H Steed was the Town Engineer. 21 contractors bid for the project which was eventually awarded to contractor Brizary & Co. from Singapore for a contract sum of $249,000.00.

However, the original cost escalated to $330,000.00 in view of the additional deco works which eventually saw the size of Central Market measuring 123.7 meters long, 60.8 meters wide and 7.9 meters high, all cladded with “Calorex” glass to minimize the entry of too much sunlight.

The present structure was completed in 1937 and it served as the central market for wholesalers and retailers until the end of 1970s.

What makes this heritage building so interesting to architectural heritage buffs is its Art Deco Architecture.  Art Deco is an influential visual arts design style introduced in France and is said to have begun from 1925 when the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes was held in France to showcase new ideas in applied arts. World War I had just ended then and the world especially Europe was full of inspirations and abuzz with fresh ideas.  It was a glorious period during which rapid industrialization and innovations were flourishing so much so that even art forms had embraced technology and modernity. It gained popularity internationally from the end of 1920s but its popularity waned in the early 1940s.

Art Deco is an eclectic style that combines traditional craft and ancient architectural motifs with Machine Age imagery and materials. The style is often characterized by rich colors, bold geometric shapes and lavish ornamentation.   This distinguishes Art Deco from the organic motifs favored by its predecessor Art Nouveau or Neo-classical.

Historian Bevis Hillier defined Art Deco as “an assertively modern style…[that] ran to symmetry rather than asymmetry, and to the rectilinear rather than the curvilinear; it responded to the demands of the machine and of new material…[and] the requirements of mass production.”

Ziggurats are frequently employed in the architecture of this building

Geometry and symmetry characterize Art Deco.

During its heyday Art Deco represented luxury, glamour, exuberance, and faith in social and technological progress.  In addition to this, the ancient architectural design such as ziggurats and pyramids are frequently employed in Art Deco.  As we can see a bold ziggurat design has been chosen by the architect in many parts of the building such as its terraced gable on its main entrance and other entrances. Notice also the interlocking rings on each of its entrance – among the geometric motifs used.

The recessed entrance and ziggurats

The recessed entrance and ziggurats

Meanwhile its recessed main entrance is said to create the illusion of a passageway to a stage set. And symmetrical receding abstract planes and aerodynamic streamlining are typical of later Art Deco details. Do take note of  the subtle horizontal band of pink textured concrete running across the breadth of Central Market as it is also the characteristic of one of the techniques used in Art Deco, in which bands or columns of contrasting materials are used to create a sense of line or division.

The contrasting band and the Colorex glass

The contrasting band and the Colorex glass

Interlocking rings

Interlocking rings

Ziggurats and geometry

Ziggurats and geometry

This elegant Art Deco building used to be under threat of demolition in the 70s to make way for the rapid development in the area.  The problem with the philistine Malaysian Government  is a new development almost always has to sacrifice the old and historic buildings that can become precious heritage buildings in future. Why can’t they find a new location without having to tear down the old one especially if it has a historical value to the nation? If not for the strong protest by Malaysia Heritage Society, other NGO’s and civil societies Central Market would have been demolished and gone forever now.

During construction of Dayabumi near Klang River banks in 1981 the market was survived from its demolition. In 1985 Central Market which once was a wet market was converted to a centre for arts, handicrafts and culture.  It was renovated into vibrant and colourful new style as it is now to befit its new function.  On 15 April 1986 it was officially opened and launched as Pasar Seni by Datuk Seri Rafidah Aziz who then was Minister of Public Enterprise.

Central Market is considered the best success story in Malaysia when it comes to preservation of heritage buildings. It is fervently hoped that the Malaysian Government would apply the same strategy in preserving and revitalising other heritage buildings in Malaysia.  They are the priceless national heritage that should be accorded with the special treatment and status they so deserve.

Let me quote what Todd Gipstein a National Geographic photographer said about architecture.  He said “Every building is a snapshot of a particular time and place – the raw materials that were on hand, how far the builders’ technology had progressed, and the aspirations of its creators. But architecture also makes a powerful statement about the unique culture it reflects, whether the elegant simplicity of a grass bungalow, or the dramatic complexity of a chrome skyscraper. One whispers, the other shouts, but both are enduring reminders of cultural identity.”

Interesting links worth visiting:

One of the most prominent landmarks of Kuala Lumpur in yesteryear apart from the Sultan Abdul Samad Building must be the old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station whose function has now been replaced by the new and modern KL Sentral since 2001.

The old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station was designed by AB Hubback with significant Mughal architectural style. The same architectural style was also applied to the KTM Headquarters located across the road, the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and the Masjid Jamek (it was also designed by AB Hubback). In other words it was the contemporary architectural style at that time.

This majestic railway station complex was completed at a cost of 23,000 dollars and began its operation on 1 August 1910.

Mughal architecture is one of the exotic revival architectural styles that was adopted by architects of Europe and America in the wake of the Romanticist fascination with everything oriental. It is a mix of Islamic, Persian and Indian influence.

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station

Mughal architecture has several significant features that are pretty easy to identify.

Take note of key-hole arches, ogee arches and horseshoe arches featured on this handsome building.  These arches form a repetitive pattern on a straight row on each floor. Key-hole arches, horseshoe arches and ogee arches are among the features that identify Mughal architecture.

Chhatris on top of the Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station

Chhatris and domes on top of the Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station

Chhatri is framed by the horseshoe arches of KTM Headquarters Building

Chhatri and dome are framed by the horseshoe arches of KTM Headquarters Building

Next, look out for onion-shaped domes sitting on top of the buildings of Mughal architectural style.  In fact domes are the most conspicuous characteristics of Mughal architecture.

Below the big domes are the chhatris – a flat plate that holds the dome. In fact, ‘chhatri’ means canopy or umbrella. Chhatris are commonly found in Hindu as well as Mughal architecture. The chhatris here are supported by eight pillars.

Let your eyes run along the roofline. This type of roof-balcony, with its holed-wall is another feature of Mughal architecture, and is very suitable for the climate in Malaysia. The wall with holes is called ‘jali’ and they use repetitive patterns.

If you look into the main porch, you will see that the ceiling is very high and wide, to suit the tropic heat and allow for airflow to cool the place. After all, this is a railway station, where thousand move in and out daily.

This architectural masterpiece is said to be the most photographed railway stations in the world! I don’t have the verified source to support the claim though.  However , judging by its majestic architecture and the British Raj image it represents it is surely one of the most photographed railway stations in the world.

It was gazetted as a heritage site on 14 April 1983.

I have photographed this heritage buildings a few times both in the early morning and in the late evening. It is during that time the building would look so majestic resulting from the dramatic and contrasty light of the warm low-angled light. This will also result in interesting shadow interplay thanks to its multi-faceted geomatric design.

Photographing it was a sheer joy. I hope this architectural gem would be well preserved by the government and more effort should be taken to ensure that it is put to good use befitting this grandiose edifice.

Do enjoy the photos and I welcome any comments and criticism. More pictures of the Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station can be found here.

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station is framed by the horseshoe arches of the KTM Headquarters

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station is framed by the horseshoe arches of the KTM Headquarters

Old against new

Old against new

The old KL Railway Station acts as a foreground interest framing the modern Kuala Lumpur skyscrapers in the background visible among them are KL Tower, Menara Maybank and Petronas Twin Towers.

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station at dusk

The Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station at dusk

Chhatri is framed by the arch and staircase of the KTM Headquarters

Chhatri and dome are framed by the arch and staircase of the KTM Headquarters

Dome and chhatri in a frame

Dome and chhatri in a frame

The dome and the moon

Dome, chhatri and the moon

The Old High Court Building with its distinctive Mughal architectural style

The Old High Court Building with its distinctive Mughal architectural style

On the other side of the Sungai Gombak (Gombak River) from the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, there is another colonial heritage building which is likely to be ignored by ordinary city folks. This  classic edifice was designed by none other than A.B. Hubback, the British architect who was instrumental in designing many buildings with Mughal architectural style in Kuala Lumpur and other major cities in Malaysia.

A distinctive feature of the Old High Court building is the towers topped with a cupola with decorative buttresses around the base. Linking these towers are passageways or verandahs with two different types of arches – keyhole arches and ogee arches – another typical traits of Mughal architecture. The towers were origanally dining chambers with private tiffin rooms. This Old High Court Building started to be constructed in 1912 and completed in 1915.

The keyhole arches on the first floor of the verandah and ogee arches on the ground floor

The keyhole arches on the first floor of the verandah and ogee arches on the ground floor

The building first housed the Kuala Lumpur High Court as its name reflects and the Supreme Court but later after the High Court and Supreme Court were at that time moved to the bigger building which was the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, this beautiful building then was occupied by the Sessions and Magistrates Court yet it is still referred to as the High Court Building until now.

Nowadays I noticed that it is occupied by part of the Ministry of Information, Communications and Culture office.

The Old High Court Building in a frame

The Old High Court Building in a frame

The  ogee arch and door with strong Mughal architectural influence

The ogee arch and door with strong Mughal architectural influence at closer look.

The Old High Court Building is located on the bank of Gombak River

The Old High Court Building is located on the bank of Gombak River

Sitting next to The Sultan Abdul Samad Building is less known The Old General Post Ofice Building.  The building is less known because people generally thought that it was part of The Sultan Abdul Samad Building but it is actually not!

The Old General Post Office was designed by architect AC Norman in 1896, constructed in 1904, but due to the contractor facing financial difficulties, the building was only completed in 1907. An arch walkway connects it to the Sultan Abdul Samad Building down the road. This walkway was only added later, after the building was completed. The style of both buildings are so similar perhaps because it was designed by the same architect A.C. Norman. Some said that The Old General Post Office builing was designed by A.B. Hubback. However I strongly believe it was A.C. Norman who designed it since it is very similar to the Sultan Abdul Samad Building and it is also located close to The Sultan Abdul Samad Building although the Old Post Office building was completed a little later.

The Old General Post Office Building has wide arcaded verandahs of ogee arches, a style repeated in other heritage buildings in the vicinity. The central leaf design pediment is framed by pinnacles. On both ends of the building are multi-sided towers housing the staircases. Its architectural style was also obviously inspired by Moghul architecture but its design was adapted to the local weather condition of Malaysia which is hot and humid.

The Kuala Lumpur General Post Office is housed here until 1984, when it moved to the present General Post Office building at the Dayabumi Complex. Today the building houses part of the Ministry of Information Communication & Culture office.

the Old General Post Office

the Old General Post Office

Key-hole arches and ogee arches

Key-hole arches and ogee arches - the prominent features of this building

The Old General Post Office against the modern skyscrapers

The Old General Post Office against the modern skyscrapers

Inside - the verandah

Inside - the verandah

Inside - the verandah

Inside - the verandah

One of the windows at the Old General Post Office

One of the windows at the Old General Post Office

 

Kuala Lumpur is considered a young city having started to develop circa 1850s when the Malay Chief of Klang, Raja Abdullah, hired some Chinese labourers to open new and larger tin mines for tin prospectors. The miners landed at the confluence of Sungai Gombak (previously known as Sungai Lumpur, meaning “muddy river”) and Sungai Klang (Klang River) to open mines at Ampang, Pudu and Batu. These mines developed into a trading post which became a frontier town. Since then it attracted various people who mostly comprised labourers, prospectors and traders.

By 1896, Kuala Lumpur was chosen as the capital of the newly formed Federated Malay States. A mixture of different communities settled in various sections of Kuala Lumpur. The Chinese mainly settled around the commercial centre of Market Square, east of the Klang River, and towards Chinatown. The Malays, Indian Chettiars, and Indian Muslims resided along Java Street (now Jalan Tun Perak). The Padang, now known as Merdeka Square, was the centre of the British administrative offices around which you can find most of the heritage buildings in Kuala Lumpur.

The most prominent heritage building in Kuala Lumpur located opposite Merdeka Square (formerly known as the Selangor Club Padang or referred to as the Padang) is the Sultan Abdul Samad Building.

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building was the best known symbol of Malaysia until the Petronas Towers were built and still today one of the most photographed buildings in Malaysia. Built between 1894 and 1897, it was designed by A.C. Norman and R.A.J. Bidwell in Moghul architectural style inspired by Moghul Architecture in India.  A prominent feature of the building is the red bricks with the white plaster lined arches gaining the “Blood and Bandages Building” title and when you look from above the building  design has an F-shaped form. Whereas its verandahs make use of many forms of arches and the most significant ones are key hole arches, ogee arches, pointed arches and horse-shoe arches which can easily be seen throughout the building.

The building also features a 40m high clock tower which is flanked by two lower towers both of which, like the clock tower, are topped with onion-shaped copper domes. The building was completed in 1896 and its clock chimed for the first time in 1897 to coincide with Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee parade.

The building was named after the then Sultan of Selangor, Sultan Abdul Samad and the British government first used it as the Federated Malay States administrative office. It later served as a High Court and Supreme Court. Today, like its neighbouring buildings, it is occupied by the Ministry of Information, Communications and Culture. While the architectural style is not particularly Malaysian and would look more at home in India, it has come to symbolize Malaysia and has played an important role in the country’s history.

Although the British Colonial Masters have long gone more than 54 years ago from Malaya (the old name of Malaysia) the structure and the buildings still remain for many years to come as part of the history as well as the living proof for the newer generations to see, learn and study.

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building is located opposite the Merdeka Square

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building

Please feel free to view more photos of The Sultan Abdul Samad Building in my zenfolio gallery.